MOSCOW, December 25. /TASS/. Do you know that seals may be quick and curious, sharks — on the contrary — lazy and indifferent, and algae in northern seas — of any colors and forms you could imagine? What is the world of the Barents and White Seas like? Why tourists may prefer it to tropical waters? Leader of the Sea Hunter (Morskoi Okhotnik) Diving Club in Murmansk Andrei Bukreyev gave answers to TASS.
From Black to White
Andrei’s diving experience began in his teens in the Crimea (the Black Sea). Back then, the word "diving" was not used in Russia yet. Later on, Andrei received a profession of a builder, gained many skills, changed many jobs, and started his own business. About ten years ago he took diving courses at the White Sea, and in 2012 became a diving instructor, thus combining a hobby and occupation.
Modern divers cannot be compared with the scuba users of his childhood: "The equipment is way far advanced — more convenient and first of all secure. Backup systems have appeared — if anything fails you can replace it. The breathing regulator — an invention by [Jacques-Yves] Cousteau [is in place]," Andrei said.
Anyway, diving is risky and complicated. The most important thing in the water, Andrei pointed out, in addition to equipment is not to panic no matter what, to be well-balanced and stress resistant.
"Most problems develop when people overestimate their abilities and do not realize where they are," he continued. "Take for example the Barents Sea — it’s actually an ocean, a far more complex environment. Water favors the brave, on the one hand, but it demands respect, on the other."
Another aspect is the Arctic climate. Water beneath the surface is always plus 4 degrees Celcius. In shallow waters in summer it may be maximum 10 degrees Celcius, and in winter in upper layers the water temperature may drop to minus one. Thus, divers must wear water-proof outfits, during a polar night they must have good lamps, and at any times — everyone must be cautious and attentive.
Phlegmatic jaws and cheerful flippers
All problems are nothing when you see the Arctic’s beauty and diversity, the diver says adding that he would never agree that the aquatic world is worth watching in southern seas only. "I love the Barents Sea. The Black Sea is poor — only rocks and caves," he said.
What is there in the Barents and White Seas? The kelp forests, large sea anemones of all possible colors, and picturesque corals, gorgonians, and similar to them — amazing deep-sea animals, dubbed Gorgon's head. "My friends were in Egypt. They say they had enough of the view quite quickly, every diving experience was nothing new — the same corals, fish and sea urchins," Andrei said. "While here every diving experience brings something new, unexpected."
Once, Andrei was in the sea with his friends, when at the depth of 20 meters they saw a polar shark. "Fearsome. It was not small, about six meters. They are not aggressive, and that one was even phlegmatic: it froze and we enjoyed looking at each other for about a couple minutes."
Seals can also be curious. "Imagine, I work there in the water — they get used to you and begin to get closer, allowing even to be touched. Though, it’s not the best idea — it’s a wild animal anyway. And something else — never try riding a seal — it will be protecting itself."
Truly dangerous species do not live in the Arctic seas, the diver said. Even killer whales are not that dangerous — the diver has encountered them more than once. Besides, the water in the Barents and White Seas is rather transparent, and in early spring and autumn you can see through 20 meters. But in August the algal bloom begins and visibility drops to zero.
No wonder the Arctic is attracting more and more tourists, even diving clubs both from central Russia and from abroad, including from Asia. An Arctic trip would be more expensive than a tour to Egypt — transport, housing expenses and the rest are more costly in the North, but anyway, it is still affordable — a 10-day tour with diving could make about 100,000 rubles ($1,600).
Underwater tourism in the North will develop further, the instructor continued, adding that it may be combined with gastronomic tourism. A diver can pick and try mussels, scallops, sea urchin caviar. "If crab fishing could be allowed, very many people would’ve come, even more than now," he said.
Searching for heroes and dabblers
Diving experts work not only with tourists. Andrei and his colleague often do other jobs. At the depth of 80 meters they lifted a tanker’s anchor chain and examined sunken vessels — for example, three vessels in Kola Bay, where one lay on top of the others, due to which the structure was dubbed "a pie."
Divers assisted rescuers in search for missing people many times. Last summer, two divers from Karelia and St. Petersburg went missing in the Barents Sea. The Sea Hunter Club joined the search effort, but could not find the men, probably because of strong sea currents.
In 2018, Andrei and his friends participated in locating and lifting a Petlyakov Pe-2 Soviet twin-engine dive bomber, whose crew died on August 14, 1942. The divers managed to lift the plane’s elements within 20 days — the engine, pit’s fragments, and the helm from Sredneye Vayengskoye Lake near Severomorsk. The most important finding was remains of the pilot’s body — they were reburied with honors.
The task was complicated. The depth reached 15 meters and visibility was very poor. "Silt on the bottom, and any clumsy movement stirs it up, nothing can be seen," the diver said.
Andrei speaks unwillingly about professional achievements. When asked about his record depth, he says every diver has reached their own depths, and setting records is not his goal. Anyway, recently he read about a diving record in the Barents Sea, which had been a few meters deeper than his record. "They must have beaten my earlier record," he laughed.
Dancing in the sea
However, there is one record, about which he told us with pleasure. For a few years already, they have been fixing a decorated New Year tree on the Barents Sea’s bottom. Other Russian divers have similar traditions — some put up the tree in pools, others under ice in lakes. But a tree in the Barents Sea is the northernmost decoration of the kind.
This history goes back to 2012. Since then, the tradition continues despite the changing northern weather. One year, the air temperature in Kola Bay was minus 20 and the thick fog blocked the air.
Celebrations in the water include dancing around the tree, photo sessions, and sometimes they even … drink champagne using a complex technology. Here it is. Open the bottle, and cork it with a finger, then take the air pipe out of the mouth, take a sip from the bottle, again block the bottle and return the air pipe into the mouth. "Some salt water surely gets into the mouth, well, such are the shortcomings we have to put up with," Andrei said with a smile.
A few days earlier, the divers held another celebration in Kola Bay. Thus, the Russian subsea Arctic has welcomed the New Year in.