- Can you swim well, Arkady?
I wish I were a better swimmer. But I can swim against the current. I’ve learned how to do that.
- That’s a valuable quality. After all, as experience shows, saving those who are drowning still remains entirely the work of the ones drowning…
Moreover, as it has turned out, in some situations it’s better to be a piece of trash. More often than not trash stays afloat.
So, there is a dilemma. To turn into a piece of trash is as bad as to swim like a stone.
There is one more way out, though. Sometimes it is easier to pretend you are a piece of trash and stay afloat.
- Do you really think it can help?
What’s vital is not to stink too much. But on the other hand, in real life it is better to be than to pretend.
Now that’s a great way to start an interview! The picture of life we’ve drawn is brimming with optimism…
- Incidentally, as far as drawing and fine arts are largely concerned, you once made a remark that you hate to repeat yourself and even compared yourself to an artist who always paints different pictures.
There was a time when I liked to create restaurants that looked very different from one another. As time marches on you get a wiser and realize that to run network projects is easier and, possibly, more correct than several dozen outlets having different styles, partners, chefs and managers. True, the process may be thrilling and the result beautiful, but it is also very tiresome. Besides, the principle of consistency is still there. Everything should follow some logic and style of management. I have network outlets such as Prime, Farsh and Krispy Kreme, but they are very few and constitute only a tiny part of the Novikov Group. Independent restaurants each having its own name and image make up the backbone.
I’m not saying that I chose the wrong way of building my business but… Do you know what thoughts enter my mind from time to time? Today I rule the roost. I have my colleagues to rely on. But sooner or later all this will have to be placed in somebody else’s hands. Clearly, it will be impossible to find anyone that can perfectly fill our shoes. There will be different people; some better, some worse. But where should we look for them? Will they be eager and capable of taking care of this business? The older I get, the more frequently I ask myself such questions. Very often I find no answers.
- You were born in 1962. By today’s standards, you are still young and wet behind the ears.
No denying that. But 58 is some kind of a borderline. At least, that’s the way I feel about it. And the thoughts I have today had never entered my mind before.
- These are turbulent times. What do the current world events remind you of? Aivazovsky’s The Ninth Wave?
I’ve never liked Aivazovsky, especially, the Ninth Wave. No, I’d paint a very different picture…
You know, I’m a born fighter, and definitely not a timid one.
- I reckon, different types of people just don’t survive in business.
You may have a point there… At the same time, I do not like critical situations. I try to walk away from trouble when I can. And I hate storms. Literally and figuratively.
- Have you been through some?
Yes, of course. How else could it have been? Some were serious ordeals.
- Like what?
Once we got into trouble somewhere between Italy and France. We were on a boat. A yacht rather. As long as I watched it through the porthole, everything looked OK. But the moment I climbed to the bridge, I realized the real scale of the disaster. My heart sank. I thought I should’ve never stepped out of the cabin.
Naturally, a lot depends on who is at the helm, and if the route is charted well enough…
Now, back to the current situation. Fortunately, this is not the Ninth Wave yet. I fear we are just at the beginning of the storm and we have no idea of what is in store for us. But if it is true that the worst waves are all behind us then it would be correct to say that we’ve gotten off quite easy. The sea will most probably remain rough for some time, but in principle we still keep lifeboats handy.
Several days ago, I woke up at five in the morning…
- Isn’t that too early?
That’s what I’m trying to say. It must be that my age is making itself felt. For instance, today I opened my eyes and looked at the clock: 5:15 am. I turned on an audio book and started listening. The audio ended in roughly half an hour and within five minutes, I fell asleep again.
Similarly, several days ago, I woke up at an ungodly hour again and decided to use the TV as a sleeping pill. Flipping through the channel, I stumbled upon a documentary about The Titanic.
- A very fitting choice …
Back then, I didn’t even think about it. I started watching it without any other thoughts. The more I watched, the more captivated I became. It seems that the story is well-known, but the authors offered their own explanation as to why the Titanic disaster led to such a huge loss of human life. On this enormous ship there were very few boats, since everybody was certain that the risk of the ship sinking was impossible. Indeed, what’s the use of having too many boats on a ship that would never sink?
In a word, as I watched the film about the coincidences that preceded the disaster, I took note that the parallels with today’s realities speak for themselves.
- Did you manage to get your own life boats ready before the pandemic hit?
To an extent. The only thing I could’ve never imagined was that the crisis would hit the catering industry globally. We’d opened our outlets around the world. You can see our restaurants and cafes in London, Miami, Qatar’s Doha, Baku, and Porto Cervo in Sardinia…
I’d foreseen the risk of some problems possibly arising in some countries, but that COVID-19 would shake up the world… Honestly, that took me by surprise.
What’s more, in previous years, I made some investments into real estate in Moscow and began to rent out the buildings. I thought that if I decide to quit the restaurant business, then I would have some money from the leased assets to live on. Then all of a sudden, all the renters stopped paying due to the pandemic. Today, they still pay very little, too. I’ve been pretty lax with them, though. I offered them discounts and deferments for the lockdown period. What else could I do? It’s been a very rough ride for us all.
Although in all fairness I must note that one man’s misfortune is another man’s gain, as the saying goes. There have been and still are companies that trade in medical items – all these masks, medical gowns, sanitizers and other PPE items. All of them have seen their businesses doing quite well, perhaps, even better than usual.
This is certainly not our case.
- Has anybody in your group hit rock bottom?
I can’t say for now. Hopefully, not. As of today, not a single restaurant has closed.
- At a certain point you warned you’d have to shut down Sirena, your first outlet that has been in business since 1991.
This thought did cross my mind. But then I found a business partner. Also, we’ve replaced the management team at the restaurant.
- Right now, during the crisis?
Yes! and the restaurant seems to have sprung back to life and gotten its second wind. Revenues have rebounded somewhat, thanks to the outdoor terrace for the time being. It’s very cozy there. We’ll wait and see what happens in the autumn.
I hope that Sirena will safely pull through. It’s like my own signature, a very personal thing. My first brainchild. This explains why I hate the idea of closing it. Until just recently, I’d been that restaurant’s sole owner, and now I’ve sold a stake for a very moderate sum, because I felt that the business needed new blood. My new partner has never been in the restaurant business before, but he looked very enthusiastic, and we clinched a deal.
- Shall we reveal his name?
Honestly? I don’t even know his full name. Only his first name: Dmitry. He is listed on my iPhone contacts as “Dmitry, guest”.
- Why “guest”?
My manager found Dmitry, called me and said: “Arkady, there is someone who would like to invest in Sirena, and I asked: “Who is he?” When I heard his name, I wrote it down so as not to forget it.
- Is this your idea of the proper way of concluding business deals? I should say you are unscrupulous about your connections, sir!
And please see to it that this phrase stays in the proofread version of the interview: “Novikov does not drown, even though he is not a piece of garbage. Also, he is unscrupulous about his connections…” Excellent!
Seriously speaking, I believe that the emergence of a new partner may cardinally change the restaurant’s future and give it a fresh impetus. A blood transfusion is sometimes useful. I do believe in the intrinsic power of certain artefacts. Do you see the various things I have on – all these good luck charms? On my wrist and on my neck?
- Something Chinese?
Yes, this pendant is made of agate. A very old item - 300 years old, to be precise. However, as far as China’s history is concerned, 300 years is a mere blink of the eye. If it were a thousand years old, then it would’ve been different. A real antique item…
And the bracelet is from agarwood. Very nice wooden pieces. I like them very much.
- Do they help?
I think so. All this works somehow. And it looks very nice.
With Sirena it’s all the same. I thought it might be a great idea to restart it with a new partner… Although the money I raised by selling a stake in it is meager.
- How much?
I’d prefer to remain mum about it. It was rather a gesture. I sold a 50-percent stake in Sirena. The money I got might be enough to build a summer lounge at best.
- Five million rubles? Ten million?
Well, a little bit more. It’s not much for a restaurant. Besides, under our contract, Dmitry is not expected to pay the lump sum, but several installments over several months. Generally speaking, I would’ve managed myself, but it was a sort of an experiment for me. I didn’t even ask any market players as to who would like to have a share. It just happened. I’m not a greedy person.
- But haven’t you said it yourself that you love money?
These are two different things – tightfistedness and love of money. How you use it and what you do with it is most important.
Greed and malice are bad qualities. But I will not lie to you and say that I’m generous. Apparently, I’m some place in the middle. Hopefully, it’s the golden mean.
- We’re not finished with the coronavirus crisis yet…
What else is there to discuss? Practically everybody’s businesses suffered, but I haven’t heard any of my colleagues having gone broke.
Many have been infected, that’s true. Among my employees and friends as well. Some had a serious case of the disease.
- Have you been tested yourself?
Four times. But I suspect that I had picked it up, too.
- Many think so about themselves. That it would be just fine. No symptoms at all, and then – boom! – you have the antibodies.
I have all reasons to suspect that I’ve had the infection. I had contacted a friend and partner who at the very beginning of the epidemic flew in from Courchevel. He picked it up there and became ill here. He was in the first group of those who had the disease. I will not name this person to you for obvious reasons. He met with me instead of staying at home. Although, in allfairness I should note that at that moment there were no strict rules in place and nobody realized how really serious it all was.
In a word, we met and spent some time together. After that, a third participant in that conversation, one of my partners, fell ill, too. And very seriously.
- And you were lucky enough that it skipped past you.
That acquaintance of mine came to the meeting at his own will. I didn’t invite him. First, we stayed at my office, but then I said that I’d prefer to have a discussion elsewhere, so we moved to a restaurant table, where there was more space and more air.
Then both of those guys got sick. Several days after that I was running a temperature, too: 37-37.5 degrees. It lasted for about a week, possibly more. I did not lose my sense of smell, nor did I have problems with my appetite.
I must admit that my wife locked me in a separate room immediately. My Nadezhda is obsessed with security and safety. For ten days I got my meals, water and everything else through a half-opened door, which would be shut again the second after. That’s how I was quarantined.
- Was it pure boredom?
I felt awesome. I really enjoyed myself. I watched TV. And read quite a bit on my PC.
Total isolation. Completely! Then all symptoms vanished. I was tested, but the medics found nothing. No coronavirus or antibodies. That was at the very beginning of the pandemic, so I suspect that the quality of tests was still imperfect. Or, possibly, it was not COVID-19, but an ordinary viral respiratory infection or pent-up fatigue.
Of course, nobody wants to contract this infection. Let me repeat, I do know some people who had a bad case of it, who were running a temperature for two weeks and whose lungs were seriously damaged.
During the first days, many took all of this lightly and preferred to take it with a pinch of humor. Then some grew so tired of the disease that they drastically shifted the tone of the conversation or preferred to ignore all telephone calls or experienced depression. You bet! Who wouldn’t feel scared when your lungs are not getting enough air? This coronavirus is a very bad thing.
- You are on friendly terms with Mikhail Mishustin. Did you keep in touch with him, when he fell ill?
When I heard the news, I messaged him. Mikhail replied that he was okay and was holding up just fine. I tried not to bombard him with phone calls or messages, because I was well aware that, firstly, he had to keep doing his job anyway, even in the hospital. Secondly, many were eager to express their sympathy and ask him how he was doing. I preferred to be tactful.
About half an hour ago, Mishustin called me to wish me a happy birthday. It was a somewhat belated message. He told me honestly, he had plans to phone me earlier, but some urgent duties popped up. He was too busy at that moment.
I was so happy that he eventually remembered it. It was a great pleasure. Besides, by that moment I had already received an official message from him.
- On a sheet of paper with a government letterhead?
Naturally. It looks very beautiful. But, honestly, I was looking forward to the moment he would congratulate me not officially, but personally. Now I have his personal greetings, too.
I get along with Mishustin very well, and I know just how busy he is.
- How long have you known each other for?
I’d say 15 or 20 years, plus or minus, but I can’t say for sure. And I do not remember when we met for the first time and how. I think it was before Mikhail’s career in the tax service.
- Common interests?
He is a remarkable personality. Creative, enthusiastic and emotional. If there’s some musical instrument somewhere close by, he’ll rush to try it. I remember one day he was presented with a portable electronic piano… Or what do you call that instrument?
- A synthesizer?
Right. He played the instrument by ear non-stop. He sang and also composed things. Mikhail has always been this kind of person. He was very fond of receiving guests and cooking for them. A very hospitable and kind-hearted person he is.
- Does he cook well?
I’ve never seen him cook myself. But he enjoys eating. Only healthy food, mind you, but in large amounts.
- Have you ever cooked for him?
Occasionally. I would quickly make a tomato salad or something else very simple. When it comes to impressing others, I know how to do it properly. Everybody always looked pleased. Mikhail often recalls: “In the good old days, Novikov used to cook for us himself. Not anymore…”
In a word, having the gift of gab, he never misses a chance to say something witty and he always likes to tease everyone … It’s part of his image.
- His job was a very special one – to squeeze out taxes.
That’s his style of communication as far as I remember. And he’s always kept me on my toes. So, watch out, no funny business!
Shall I tell you what Mishustin’s other remarkable trait is? He never makes exceptions for friends. It seems that he even takes a harder line against them than everybody else. I know several other people with whom he is on friendly terms. None of them has ever seen any favors from him. And he used to warn me, too. If I find some misconduct in your business, you will be the first to get what’s coming. And he really meant it. He wasn’t kidding around.
- And where did he promise to send you?
To places that nobody would ever like to see… For this reason, we’ve always tried to behave ourselves.
- Since we’re on this subject, I’d like you to ask a related question. You’ve undoubtedly been asked questions about a sham deal, by which you reportedly handed over apartments to Mishustin’s sons, Alexander and Alexei, on Rochdelskaya Street.
What is it that makes people think it was a sham deal?
- The sale of the apartments was reportedly fictitious. The transaction is rumored to have a corrupt side to it. Say, a hidden bribe.
Perhaps, there would’ve been a reason to say so, if the price of the apartments had been way below a fair market one. Mr. Navalny argues that I gave those apartments as a gift. But this is not so. The price paid was realistic.
- And what was that price?
I won’t say precisely, but I bought the apartments for $5,000-$6,000 per square meter. Then I sold them for about the same amount. Plus six or seven percent. I believe it was a totally normal market deal and not a sham. I purchased the dwelling for my own children. I own various pieces of real estate. When I purchased them, I thought that my son or daughter might want to live there some day. Then those plans changed. Things like that happen in life. Today you may have some plans, but tomorrow things turn out very differently.
- Did you offer them to Mishustin?
I don’t want to let my imagination run wild when trying to recall the details. Apparently, our conversation took a turn in this direction, but I did not offer anything on purpose. We all meet and discuss some things. I did not need them anymore, but Mikhail was looking for some possibilities for his children. So what’s the problem? What’s wrong here? Once Mishustin has a declared sum of money, why can't he use it to buy something from me? Everything is squeaky clean here. I made the purchase at a fair market price and sold it at a fair market price.
- Did you buy the apartments while their construction was still in progress?
When the finishing touches were being done: I owned them for about a year. But that does not matter. I was free to make a decision to sell them in two days, or in a month. That does not mean that I kept them in reserve for somebody.
- What about the Nedalny Vostok restaurant on Tverskoy Boulevard, where your partners are Mishustin’s sister Natalya Stenina and businessman Alexander Udodov, a close acquaintance of his?
We are friends. I’ve known Natalya for ages. We are very close with each other. Why shouldn’t we try to work together? We opened a restaurant. Natalya had worked for a long time in public relations and that helped us a lot. Nedalny Vostok remained a great attraction for many years. The restaurant opened in 2007, but since the crisis of 2014, it has been on a downward spiral. In 2019, we put it on hold, refurbished it and are trying to re-open it.
- So a complete overhaul and rebranding is in the works?
A great concept is dawning and the place is dazzling. Now it is called Simach in Nedalny. Denis Simachyov joined the project. For the time being, we are running it in a test mode. The full-scale inauguration is expected in the autumn.
Each restaurant has its own lifecycle. Besides, popular locations tend to change. Nobody could have thought that the Patriarch Ponds neighborhood would become so swank, while Tverskoy Boulevard would turn into a dead zone. But now we have our chance. The residents of Patriarch Ponds have demanded that all restaurants there must close for the night after 11 pm. Our hope is that the clientele will gradually shift to Tverskoy Boulevard, including Simach in Nedalny. What will happen further remains to be seen.
I believe that we will get the project up and running.
- You eagerly agree to franchising deals, in spite of the great risks involved.
By no means. I might agree with you, though, when it comes to reputation.
- But isn’t it a lot? After all you sell your own name, if you don’t mind me saying so. God only knows whom you give it away to.
Right.
- And?
What an amusing person you are! I enjoy being asked such briefly-worded questions…
- What I’m trying to say is that an individual should always cherish one’s good name.
But this is precisely what I’ve been doing all along. I’m trying to be very careful and to anticipate any consequences.
If some projects fail, then we drop them. Like the one in Dubai, for instance, where we used franchising.
The guys made a mistake in choosing both the building and the location. Everybody was telling me that they weren’t worth doing business with, but I saw that they worked well enough and displayed talent. Since we parted, they’ve made good progress and launched quite a few restaurant projects. As for the Dubai case, we aborted it, that’s true. It’s a very distinct city, but certainly not a place where anything goes. The guys picked a bad location. The outlet was busy only on Friday and Saturday evenings. In the daytime and on weekdays, there were no customers at all.
Why am I successful from time to time in opening restaurants in Moscow? I know the city and I clearly understand the needs of the Russian capital’s residents and guests. [I know] where a new project should be started and what kind of food should be on the menu. Also, I am a cook myself, and I know well enough how to look for and hire personnel. That’s my profession.
- I hear people say that in London somebody tried to throw you under the bus.
‘Tried’ is the wrong word. I was taken for a ride all right.
- I did my best to make my question sound a little bit milder so as not to add insult to injury.
In that situation, there was nobody to have a grudge against except myself. Because in the end, I was the one who lost money. There is one Richard Caring, a prominent British businessman, an owner of nightclubs and restaurants. He has many different projects.
One fine day he came to me to discuss a problem. We were vying for the same place in London’s Mayfair district.
By that time, I already had a successful restaurant called Novikov and was making plans to open another one nearby. Richard told me: there are a hundred other companies vying for the location. It’s a great place. What if you agree to withdraw your bid? I’ll have more chances to win. Then we will be able to jointly open a restaurant. It’ll be a 50-50 deal. What do you say?
I did not hesitate for a second and agreed right then and there. He was a person with a good name, a renowned businessman … I didn’t have any doubts about jumping into this deal. So, I rescinded my bid and Caring won. In line with the original goal, we decided to launch a joint project. I picked my lawyers and they started drafting documents for our would-be joint venture.
After a month had passed, I realized that nothing was happening, though. On the contrary, more procrastination ensued. I was told that Richard was ill. Then they phoned and told me that he … changed his mind and did not want to do any business with me. Honestly, I was shocked, but there was nothing I could use to confirm our agreement. We didn’t sign any papers to the effect I would revoke my bid and then we would open a joint restaurant.
I had a word with the attorneys who had some documents at their disposal, but they told me that my chances looked worse than Caring’s and the litigation would drag on for a while in any case. Perhaps, I should’ve taken the case to court, but I decided against it. I still don’t know if it was the right decision to make. The English judicial system is very complex. Probably, this is the right way of administering justice, but it is awfully bewildering. I preferred to step aside. That’s the end of the story. I still feel that I was used and discarded.
- Is it your lack of experience to blame?
And of brains, too.
- That sounds like you’re overly critical of yourself.
I can’t help it. Had it occurred nowadays, I would have signed some protocol of intent. Back then, I believed a man’s word of honor. Moreover, I shared my idea with Caring and even drew some sketches showing what kind of restaurant I would like to build.
He successfully implemented my plan, even down to its tiniest details.
- Did you go to see it?
I took a quick look.
- And for lunch?
I can’t. My competitor’s success would have turned my stomach on the spot.
- Have you ever encountered treatment like this in Russia?
No. I’m a businessman with great authority.
- A telling expression from the 1990s: virtually a synonym for the word ‘mobster’.
I use it in a positive sense. Listen, I behave in an appropriate manner. I never do malicious things to anybody and I never expect them from other people. Either abroad, in the civilized West, or here. In Russia, there have been cases when something went wrong, but on a far smaller scale.
I try to be tolerant towards all people, regardless of whether they are poor or rich, hold senior posts or have no official status at all. And I expect the same kind of attitude towards me as well.
- Are you trying to show off when you label yourself as an unorthodox type of businessman?
To a certain degree, say, 30% or so.
For instance, the Novikov Group does not run the business of all of its companies. We have many projects – catering, gourmet culinary trips, a restaurant management school, a kid’s club, a flower studio and a charity fund, and more. The group unites them all. There is a common PR policy, marketing and system of control. But our restaurants are managed independently, which is strategically wrong.
As I’ve already told you, it would be more correct to build a coherent system. But the problem is that yours truly, a restaurateur, has turned into a businessman. These are two very different professions and not very compatible ones. A businessman’s task is to cultivate and build up the business, while a restaurateur usually runs one outlet or two at the most, and does not seek to expand.
- The COVID-19 pandemic is the right moment for a total overhaul, for getting rid of useless assets and for cleaning house.
I see no chance for doing that. It’ll remain a dream… Theoretically, everything is possible in this life, but I would not like to change myself drastically. I won’t be able to. You wouldn’t come to interview me again, if I changed. What kind of person would I be then? A general without an army? Why should I streamline my own businesses to a condition where I’d be no longer of interest to anyone? Never in my life!
- Meanwhile, the elimination game is still in progress, isn’t it?
Yes, my colleagues have sustained certain losses. Some restaurants have shut down. There are numerous rental offers out there. All this was well-expected. Enormous investments were made by people who think that the restaurant business is very simple.
On the face of it, it seems to be a piece of cake. You build and open something and then just see profits pour in. There are many investors who pumped significant amounts of money into something that did not yield a lot of results. Fifty percent of such projects in Moscow end in failure, I reckon. Those who manage to break even are considered to be fortunate.
Usually, the newcomers are misled by sweet-sounding stories they hear from a chef or a manager about raking in multi-million returns on each invested dime. Some people begin to imagine themselves as great restaurateurs. In Moscow, every second person is like this.
But in all fairness, I should say that there are quite a few worthy fellows are among those who have made up their mind to try their hand at our business. I am very happy about this.
- Aren’t you afraid of competition?
I am.
- Then what is there to be happy about?
Let me explain. Before there were many public catering outlets, top-notch restaurateurs were so few that they could be counted on one hand. Now there has been an influx of talented people who make marvelous, promising projects. To me this is like a shot of adrenaline, an opportunity to test my own shape?
- Are you trying to stay in good shape?
Yes, I’ve got the muscles; I’m powerful enough to lock horns with an opponent. Although I’m already aware of the potential risks involved. Five years ago, it occurred to me for the first time that I should be more cautious.
- In what sense?
That others may get ahead. You know, people often say that Novikov is one of the country’s best restaurateurs…
- Usually you are referred to as number one…
I know well enough that any number one will find himself in second or third place someday… It’s very risky. A strain on one’s nerves may cause negative changes to an individual’s mindset. On the other hand, I must confess that I haven’t opened a restaurant that would deserve Michelin’s attention.
- The one in London won’t do?
Oh, no. Very unlikely. That restaurant is too big for stars.
Currently, we are working on a quite remarkable project in Moscow. Just recently I met Artyom Evstafiev, a chef from St. Petersburg. He is a very talented fellow. We are working on a restaurant on Tryokhprudny Pereulok together. I hope that it will be finished and we’ll be able to open it within several months.
This project may potentially vie for a Michelin rating.
- What makes you so hopeful?
I’m telling you this chef is a genius. I’ve never had anyone like him.
- In one fell swoop, you’ve insulted everybody you’ve worked with so far.
Nobody should feel insulted. Artyom is different. It’s not even his manner of cooking that I have in mind. He has some qualities no words can describe. You have to see it. You know, I’ve never made restaurants like this before. I’ve always focused on letting my customers eat well and enjoy delectable and lavish meals. In this case there’s going to be something special, highly artistic, like the Bolshoi Theater. This guy is a real gem.
- Where did you dig him up?
On Instagram. I was looking for a cook, so I posted a message on my page. Artyom was one of those who replied. He did not fit in with the concept of the project that I had in mind, but he decided to write to me after all. I saw him and became interested. And when I tasted the meals that he cooks I did not believe what I felt at first. Everything was very beautiful … and delicious. You know how it usually happens. Beautiful things don’t taste good enough and vice-a-versa. In this case, I struck a fortunate harmony.
I tasted one meal, then another one and a third… Fantastic! To make the long story short, Artyom agreed to move to Moscow with his family. We are building a restaurant and it’s going to seat 30, at the most 40 customers.
- Is there a name for it already?
Art.Est. It is derived from his name – Artyom Evstafiev.
I’m not afraid of any sort of jinx, so I’ll repeat he is an amazing fellow. A genius! We are just beginning to work together. Artyom is very enthusiastic about the project. He collects herbs and flowers, he ferments melons, plums, and strawberries and he invents various vinegars, although the kitchen is not ready yet. We’ll see what will come of it.
- Is it important for you to fall in love?
Of course. I’m made of love. Otherwise I would’ve never succeeded in any of my undertakings. I believe that it is a prerequisite of success.
There’s a fire burning inside me as long as I’m in love. This explains why it is important for me to start different projects again and again. I find it hard to stay focused on the same thing all the time.
Mind you, this does not apply to family.
- A very important reservation, indeed.
Nadezhda knows this very well. We’ve been together for 30 years. We’ll celebrate our anniversary in September…
Also, it’s no good having the same meals all the time. Even the tastiest ones. You’ll get bored.
It is impossible to run one restaurant all your life. You’ll find it irritating very soon.
You’ve asked me about painters. Imagine drawing the same picture all your life. It would drive you crazy!
- Incidentally, have you tried your hand at painting?
That’s an overstatement. I tried to produce something in oil on a canvas a couple of times, just for amusement. I thought I was painting a sunset. Eventually, I came up with a forest fire. You may find this funny, but believe me, it looked precisely like I said.
And the next time I just aimlessly moved the brush from side to side. This is how I ended up painting a seascape.
- You’ve just told me you do not like Aivazovsky. But you are a painter of seascapes yourself, Arkady, aren’t you?
Nobody has ever described me this way yet…
I’ve taken two lessons so far. I like the process. You feel you are being carried away into a different world. It’s a wonderful feeling… Of course, you are supposed to have a knack for painting and the calling. I may be talentless, but I find great pleasure in the process.
- Why didn’t you go ahead with it?
I haven’t started in earnest yet. The desire was there and I did have a go. It was fun.
- Where are the paintings now? Framed and hanging on a wall?
A friend of mine purchased them at a charity auction. For several thousand dollars. Now she makes fun of me from time to time. We recalled the affair just recently and had a good laugh…
- You also took a stab at being a singer as well.
Listen, popularity has to be supported somehow. To be in line with the modern trend, I recorded a rap style piece during the lockdown and then uploaded it to Instagram.
- You have half a million subscribers or so, don’t you?
A little more than that. I like to have fun and entertain others.
- Your own wife is often the target of your jokes. Does she react calmly enough?
It depends. Nadezhda has a good sense of humor, but sometimes I may overdo it. Then her reaction may be painful. I remove the clip myself, if I feel that I’ve stepped over the line. A joke must be cute but still remain within the rubric of politeness. I never try to insult others.
My wife and I have long learned to understand each other without saying too many words. After all, we’ve been together for so many years! When we met, Nadezhda was very beautiful. She remains a beauty now, but in those days, she looked like a goddess. As for me, I looked awful. I’m still curious why she agreed to meet with me when I dated her. Terrible! If my own daughter today came home with a boyfriend looking like me then, I’d be stunned. Nadezhda was not scared away, although as far as I know she had several contenders to choose from. I don’t know how it all happened. I was neither rich, nor a person of means. I had no prospects; I was just an ordinary bullfrog kind of a fella.
- With no chances of ever becoming a prince?
Not the slightest chance at all! I was an ordinary cook at a cooperative cafe in Gorky Park.
- Have you ever stolen something from work?
Naturally. In the Soviet Union everybody was in the habit of bringing something home from work. You stole what you were supposed to guard. There was no other way around it. At the end of the working day we were given something, say a lump of meat, half of a chicken, a lemon and 200 grams of butter… A classic Soviet food parcel.
- And now?
This custom was brought to an end several years after perestroika, I think. In 1991, when we opened the first private restaurant, there still were some cooks who tried to cheat, cut corners and use less ingredients than they should. This lasted for a couple of years. Eventually, I fired such scammers.
From time to time, we catch some red-handed today, too. Human nature remains the same. About six months ago, we fired several people for stealing food. Usually such things happen due to the lack of our control. We try to plug the gaps, but some resourceful guys manage to find others.
- Did you hand them over to the police?
We booted those swindlers. Actually they punished themselves. All of them are grownup people, yet have no brains. Do you know how many cases like this I’ve had? Dozens! At different levels. There have been directors, managers, waiters, chefs and cooks… Those found responsible for theft are dismissed without much ado. We never give them a second chance. A leopard can’t change its spots.
- But when you were a young man in the army, at some point you faced the risk of ending up behind bars.
It was a great time! I was commissioned to guard a warehouse of fuel and lubricants. I tried to sell a cistern of kerosene only to be instantly caught by our non-commissioned officers. I was fortunate they decided against reporting the incident to the command. They had mercy on a young fool like me. But they also warned me that next time I would be arrested, tried by a military tribunal and sent to jail.
Had it not been for that first fiasco, I might have gone into the oil business instead of becoming a cook. Now I would’ve been an oil tycoon…
That’s a joke, of course. Seriously speaking, I’ve never been involved in any shady schemes since. I realized that I had to get out of there and requested transfer to a different army unit, so as to escape any temptation. You know, it is hard to resist when money is literally scattered on the ground under your feet. There was an ocean of kerosene at that warehouse. An incredible amount of it remained unaccounted for. It was brought in a cistern and reloaded, but how much of it was eventually spent was anyone’s guess… That’s how I got into it. Very foolish of me. Fortunately, I asked for a transfer elsewhere.
- And there you became a dog trainer.
Yes, a guard dog handler. That’s what is written down in my military ID. Before demobilization, I was even invited to stay in the army or to serve in the police. I even spent some time thinking it over. In the end I got back to the profession of being a cook, but the love of dogs still remains with me.
I’ve had three dogs, three sheep-dogs in my life. Two died of natural causes and one was run over by a car.
- How many dogs do you own now? Five?
There are already six of them. Three Jack Russell Terriers, one Toy Terrier, one Shiba-Inu and a mutt.
- Do you train them?
I have no time. Besides, I’m too lazy. When I get home back from work, my sole wish is to relax and do nothing.
- During the lockdown you certainly stayed at home more times than you are destined to for years to come.
Yes, it was a unique situation. But I felt great. I even got used to it and might have spent as much time like so.
I idled my days away, or cooked food for my family, or wrote some verses…
- And who runs the house?
There was a woman housekeeper in charge of domestic chores and cooking. She spent roughly 15 years with us. Now Yelena has returned to her native country, Moldova. Her son got married recently. Now, she has a grandson and has her own family to assist. I must admit that over so many years Yelena and our family developed a very close relationship.
- So, you had a housekeeper do all the cooking over all these years.
In general, yes. We explained to Yelena what we would like to see on our table. She studied our tastes and cooked for us.
By the way, I’m not very demanding, when it comes to food, even though I know much about cooking. I can easily whip up something myself or just have bread and butter and be happy.
However, if I’m offered something barely edible – at home or in a restaurant - I won’t keep quiet. Self-control or intelligent manners are not my strong points. Regrettably, I may lose temper and tell a person where to go in very certain terms. Some things tick me off on the spot.
- Have you taught your children the ABCs of the restaurant business?
With Alexandra, my daughter, it’s better not to do any business at all. It’s more useful for your health.
- Why?
We both flare up like matchsticks. Sometimes we both catch fire without a spark. We had a quick talk just recently and at a certain point I thought that a fireworks display would follow right then. Fortunately, nothing happened that time.
This is just me grumbling like a father. In reality, my daughter is clever and beautiful.
Alexandra has her own business. Her health food company is called How to Green, and it’s an affiliate of the Novikov Group. My daughter has her own idea of how to run her business. She did everything herself with her own hands.
I took no part in it at all. Except for giving her some 300,000-400,000 rubles she used as her start-up capital. Alexandra got her education in Britain. Then she spent one year studying in the US. And after that she returned to Russia and – ready, set, go! She’s on the ball, very clever. I don’t meddle in her affairs.
- What about Nikita?
My boy likes finance. He is a trader. I agreed to give him some money for a start, too. I’ve been urging him to get vocational training, to learn a trade or related profession. He doesn’t want to do that and I find this worrying. Practical skills are essential.
I’ve never hired a single cook who has graduated from a vocational school or institute. A diploma does not provide knowledge or skills, only experience does, and a knife in hand. Let me repeat. I’ve never hired a single person after looking at a CV indicating what the job applicant studied. It is far more important how job seekers think, speak and look. I prefer to focus on these criteria, and not the portfolio.
A person’s attitude to a job is the key to success. You have to put your heart into the job you do. You know, I was once asked at what time I come to work. I stopped to think and it took me a while to realize that the question contained one redundant word – work. When we breathe, we are unaware of the process. In those days, I did not work, but just lived that way. And I liked that life very much. Nothing else existed for me.
In recent years, though, I began to feel certain changes deep inside me. Work has become just work for me. Now I would like to take a break. Nadezhda helped me and taught me how. All of a sudden, I saw that in the world around me there are not just business partners, but also friends, creative endeavors and an opportunity to travel… And many other things!
But it is too early for me to retire. First, I’ll have to find people who can be trusted and who will take over my business. I’ve already told you that I’m still searching and trying to find a substitute, but for the time being nobody like that has come my way…
- And how about selling the whole group and turning your back on it?
No chance. This is a very special asset that’s not for amateurs. This figure should be an unorthodox type of businessman like myself. For this reason, I’ll continue to be the slave of the lamp and can count only on a brief vacation.
- Where will you fly to in order to get some sun?
To Italy, if they agree to let me in.
- Are going to visit your villa on Lake Como? You know the one that once belonged to Versace, which is now yours.
I was there just recently. I found a loophole to get out of Moscow. Everything is okay at Lake Como.
But we have many other places where you can enjoy yourself. For instance, Sardinia. Nadezhda and I have had the habit of going there for 23 years now. At some point, I fell in love with that island and we haven’t missed a single summer there. We have a small restaurant in Porto Cervo. Time to go and see how it is doing.
As the saying goes, nothing personal, it’s just business.
I’ll take a look at it and get back home at once. We are determined to sail on with no intention of sinking.